A ten-day private guided tour of North India, thrown in with stays at palatial hotels, delectable food in magical settings and a chance to see captivating world heritage monuments, all in good company. This was going to be my first travel experience since the pandemic had started, and was I excited! Summers in North have a funny way of showing their warmth (pun intended). So, when the temperature recorded a five-year high, I knew this was going to be a different trip.
Days 1-2: Old & New Delhi
We began our journey in Delhi, where we were guests at the Leela Palace in Chanakyapuri. A grand welcome awaited us on our arrival, after which we headed to our rooms for a short rest. We had a big day in front of us. We first explored Old Delhi in the only way one should, on cycle rickshaws. The famed rickshaws rides at Chandni Chowk combined both chaos and excitement as we made through the lively bazaar surrounded by a cacophony of noise and different smells. I would not have had it any other way! Add to it the festive vibes at Jama Masjid during Ramadan and it made for an even more spectacular experience!
We headed back to New Delhi for a refreshing lunch at the famed Claridges hotel. Fortified, we headed straight to the Humayun’s Tomb. A precursor to Taj Mahal, this heritage site has been restored with help from the Aga Khan Trust for Culture and its partners. Our first day ended with a special dinner back at our hotel with us ecstatically indulging in Chef Sameer’s curated bespoke menu.
Days 3-4: The City of Lakes, Udaipur
Our next stop had always been one of my favorite cities on the circuit. Our arrival was made even more special by the grand welcome extended by our hotel partner, The Leela Palace set shore side of scenic Lake Pichola, greeting us with a shower of petals, ceremonial melodies, and signature palace services with our very own personal butler. After freshening up we headed out to the city for an elaborate lunch at the sunset terrace of Taj Fateh Prakash Palace offering sublime views of the Lake Palace complex, before embarking on a private cruise on the lake. After a long day, we were back at the hotel for a sundowner followed by a dinner spread individualized by Chef Simran that turned out to be as grand as our welcome.
Next day, we jumped back on to the tour wagon the city’s important landmarks and in the evening, rejoiced watching Manchester city maintaining their slender lead in the Premier League title race after a thrilling 2-2 draw with Liverpool at the Etihad Stadium. The palace services were quick to accommodate our last minute request to watch the live telecast and remained at our beck and call. Small wonder, this property has been T&L’s top pick for discerning travelers worldwide.
Days 5-6: The Pink City, Jaipur
Without a direct connecting flight to Jaipur, we were in for a 7-hour road journey through rustic towns, back roads, and along the national highway. Home to many legends, splendid palaces, and royal affluence, the pink city has drawn people for centuries from the farthest points on the globe.
We were thrilled to venture out into the old-walled city using a means that was as endearing as its name, the tuk-tuk, a motorized version of a pedicab. In the evening we were wowed by a gastronomical extravagance by the step-well, hosted by our friends at Samode Haveli. Given the elaborate menus we encountered, one might have mistaken the whole purpose of our trip was to eat and eat alone.
As a cultural jewel of India, the city of Jaipur is a must-see for at least three reasons- the imposing City Palace, the majestic Amer Fort and the colorful local bazaars. And we checked them all off our list. After a splendid high-tea at Rajmahal Palace – an opulent nod to Rajasthan’s imperial past, we rolled up our sleeves and headed to a home kitchen, where we learnt to whip up a delectable Rajasthani feast with elaborate threads of conversations with Thakur Durga Singh, our host for the evening, who does not fail to regale you with his fascinating stories.
Days 7-8: Ranthambore National Park
After two peaceful and serene nights in Jaipur, we headed to the elegant Oberoi Vanyavilas, also home to Ranthambore National Park, a former royal hunting ground turned wildlife reserve. It was magical to unwind in its private tents amidst lush green landscape. After a short intermission we headed for an exhilarating safari game drive. The chief attraction here are the park’s tigers and luck was on our side as we were able to catch a glimpse of a tiger and her three cubs. The safari next morning was not as fruitful as the last one. Nonetheless, we took to the pool for all the time that remained at our disposal.
Day 9: The Taj Mahal, Agra
A day later we found ourselves headed to the Oberoi Amarvilas, Agra on a route that took us first to Fatehpur Sikri, a poignant ruin in India. The afternoon heat and sweat, dissolved away when we settled into our suites which had the most spectacular view –the Taj Mahal and watching it change in hue at sunset while lolling on our bed was otherworldly. The fine dining experience at the Esphahan was a real treat; the group indulged in a little chilly-eating contest, whilst yours truly had an endorphin rush with one too many!
Sunrise is by far the best time to visit the timeless Taj Mahal. We sat there absorbing the moment, taking in the ambient colors of the sky at dawn, the light falling serenely on the white marble structure, unveiling its varied avatars with every progressing minute. Being the first to enter the Taj Mahal in the wee hours of the day certainly had its advantages.
Day 10: Depart Delhi
Although India wins hearts with its incredible street food, it can also make our visitors lose their stomachs due to its raw elements! So Instead of taking a train, we were back on the road, which ensured that my now ailing guests had some relief.
Bidding adieu to Agra, we took a +three hour road journey to Delhi. The Taj Palace, located in the diplomatic enclave in Lutyen’s Delhi was our final stop. We had been on the road for a good ten days. We had some great memories from the tour when the group got together for their farewell meal at the Spicy Duck. It had been an amazing experience, and we had some great memories to take back home.
Here we were, ready to embrace a world of new normal- masked up, sanitized, at arm’s length, visiting less crowded destinations, yet it was all so familiar. It’s been ages since we’ve been housebound, yet the reality is that we, as incredible beings have adjusted, adapted and modified our way so well to a new environment. None the less, nothing matches the feeling of finally having the wind in your hair.
As a first-time vegan, I had found it convenient to steer through the meals during the journey, given my food preference was handled avidly by all hotel partners.
Many places claim they offer something for everyone; India actually delivers on this, whether you are a hotel snob or someone seeking culture, good food, spa-wellness and wilderness!