art of travel

College Street, Kolkata

Stories of Legacy, Culture, and Timeless Traditions

Excerpts From the Kolkata Report of the Bridge the Knowledge Gap Study Tour 2024

MUST-VISTS:

THE TOMB OF DAVID HARE (1775-1842); CLOCKMAKER, PHILANTHROPIST AND EDUCATIONIST:

David Hare lies buried in the College Square surrounded by the very institutions he helped to create. We were struck by the quiet contrast between the simplicity of his final resting place and the magnitude of his legacy. Knowing that he was a clock-maker who became a key figure in founding and nurturing the Hindu College (now Presidency College), Hare School, and Kolkata Medical College filled us with awe. As the first and only non-medical principal of the Medical College, he had helped Hindu students overcome social taboos around dissections through his personal interventions with their families.

What struck us most was the story of his final days—how he contracted cholera while caring for a native student and, despite his immense contributions, was denied burial in a Christian cemetery, labelled a non-believer due to his close ties with the native Indian community. The story of the sheer size of his funeral procession, with 5,000 mourners, mostly natives, following him to this very spot, stayed with us. His tomb, quiet and unassuming, reflects his enduring legacy, surrounded by the institutions that were once his life’s work.

PARAMOUNT (SINCE 1918): QUENCHING KOLKATA’S THIRST FOR MORE THAN 100 YEARS

This century-old establishment is renowned for its exclusive range of cool drinks, made from secret recipes. Our guide shared the intriguing story behind Paramount. The shop’s origins trace back to when Nihar Ranjan Majumdar, a young man from Barishal (now in Bangladesh and world famous for its Hilsa Fish), opened a small shop in Calcutta. Far more than being just a place for cool drinks, it served as a covert meeting spot for revolutionaries fighting against British rule. Majumdar, a member of the radical Anushilan Samity, changed the shop’s name to Paramount after its cover was blown.

Paramount has preserved much of its original charm over the years. Aside from a few functional updates, such as a modern fridge replacing the old German-made wooden one—as shared by our guide —the shop’s character remains largely intact. Yellowed portraits of famous Bengalis and flower-adorned deities still adorn the walls, watching over the crowd. Italian marble-topped tables add to the shop’s nostalgic appeal.

An almost century-old sign still hangs on the wall, declaring, “If you are satisfied, tell others. If you are not, tell us.” This motto has helped Paramount navigate over a hundred years of business. The only visible nod to modernity is a pair of display cases featuring newspaper articles about the shop and a list of the many luminaries who have visited it, proudly mounted high on the wall.

MUST DRINK AT PARAMOUNT: Daab Sharbat, Paramount’s signature drink made from tender coconut is a must try. The recipe for the Daab Sharbat was gifted to Paramount by the renowned Kolkata chemist, educator, and entrepreneur, Acharya Prafulla Chandra Roy. He was sympathetic to the revolutionaries, providing them with shelter and food at his factories. After his death, many revolutionaries and colleagues recalled his assistance in the manufacture of explosives. Daab Sharbat was intended to be both affordable and nourishing, especially for the students who frequented the educational institutions of College Street.

KALPATARU PAN BHANDAR (SINCE 1930): KHILI PAAN THAT MELTS IN THE MOUTH

Kalpataru Bhandar, a 94 year-old shop on College Street, offered us a delightful experience with its renowned khili paan. This paan, so delicate it almost melts in the mouth, leaving a lingering aroma. In Bengali tradition, paan—a betel leaf roll—is a common end to a lavish meal. It serves as a mouth freshener and holds a special place in various rituals including marriages in Bengal, being considered auspicious.

The shop was established by Radha Binod Datta after moving from Bangladesh and has long been a favourite among intellectuals and the Coffee House crowd. As we stepped into the small, open shop, the first thing that caught our eye was the array of glass containers filled with paan condiments. The walls are adorned with photographs of political figures and renowned Bengali personalities, adding a touch of local history. Watching the paan being made was a highlight—each ingredient carefully added with a pinch of this and a pinch of that. Once made, the paan is wrapped in pink paper with a drop of attar (essential oil), and then placed in an envelope for serving.

Kalpataru’s paans come with intriguing names and range in price from Rs 5 to Rs 1,001. Each one features a unique blend of condiments and the shop’s special ‘magic masala,’ making every paan distinct in taste and flavour.

College Street isn’t just about books; it’s about being part of a community that reveres knowledge and the written word, and it’s about standing up for what matters. It’s a place where stories are shared, where knowledge is passed on, and where the love for learning is cultivated in the open air, beneath the canopies of countless bookstalls and in the halls of its iconic cafés. In a world where digitalisation is rapidly changing how we read and learn, College Street remains a timeless symbol of the enduring power of books, the fervour of activism, and the unique culture they create – which is why it’s a must-visit for anyone looking to connect with the intellectual and cultural heart of Kolkata.

Bridge the Knowledge Gap is an annual summer training programme that the Destination Knowledge Centre has been organising since 2017. It aims to empower, educate, and share the collective knowledge of the Destination Knowledge Centre with the Tour Operations staff. The programme consists of a five-day in-depth classroom session in our Gurgaon office followed by a two-week on-ground study tour, ensuring that participants not only learn about destinations but also experience them first-hand.

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