art of travel

Ladakh

By Dagmar Marrocco, Senior Regional Product Manager, Kuoni UK

Our adventure began right from the start with the Delhi to Leh flight. Flying over the Himalayas with some of the most spectacular mountains we’d ever seen, everyone had their phones pressed up against the windows. Arriving at Leh Airport was unexpectedly chaotic, as it serves not only travellers but is also an important Indian military base. However, once we navigated through the initial hustle, we found peace in the Indus Valley, with its Tibetan Buddhist influences, soaring snowcapped peaks, fast-flowing rivers, arid desert-like slopes, ancient forts, and magnificent monasteries perched atop hillsides.

General Travel Information

Leh, the largest city in Ladakh, is located on the Indus River. For centuries, it was an important stop on the famous Silk Trade Routes between Kashmir, Tibet, India, and China. Today, for travellers, it acts as a central hub from which you can venture over the mountains and along valleys to various destinations.

Using a private guide and driver gave us flexibility from the start, especially when we experienced the effects of high altitude. This made it easy to amend our plans and not miss out on anything. It’s strongly advisable to spend the first two days in Leh with minimal activity to acclimatise. At 3,524m, many travellers, including us, experience exhaustion or mild altitude sickness, which subsides completely after 48 hours. Thinley Lundup, our guide, and Tanzen Stanzin, our driver, were both outstanding. They were welcoming and insightful – we laughed a lot and loved spending time with them!

High season runs from June to September, with warmer weather, while July and August are the busiest months. We travelled in the last two weeks of September, which was quieter and sunny but cool. A fleece or light jacket was sufficient during the day, while nights were cooler but didn’t require heavy winter gear. The sun was strong, so don’t forget your hat, sunscreen, and sunglasses.

We stayed in a mix of owner-run guesthouses and smaller hotels. Our hosts were incredibly hospitable and happy to share their culture and knowledge with us. However, standards are not to the same level as elsewhere in India.

The local cuisine is simple and delicious. Expect hearty meals of rice, vegetables, chicken, and mutton, featuring Indian, Ladakhi, and Kashmiri spices and flavours. Apricots are extensively grown, so you’ll find apricot jam, stewed apricots, and dried apricots everywhere. Don’t miss the momos, thukpa, and butter tea – they’re all must-tries!

Must-Visit Experiences

Deciding which monastery to visit can be challenging, as each has unique attributes. Thiksey Monastery, known for its early morning prayers with the resident monks, was a perfect start to the day. Sharing in the prayer rituals and butter tea felt spiritual – arguably, this was my favourite experience.

Hemis Monastery, tucked away in a gorge, is the largest in the region and features a museum with Buddhist artefacts and relics. It’s highly recommended – try to visit in the afternoon when it’s quieter. Other notable mentions include Alchi Monastery, with its captivating murals; Lamayuru Monastery, the oldest in Ladakh, dating back to the 11th century; and the serene Charasa Palace in the Nubra Valley, where we were the only visitors!

In Leh, the main thoroughfare, Leh Bazaar Road, is a wide pedestrian shopping street with general and trekking stores and a Tibetan market. The Leh Palace towers in the background, and the more recently built Shanti Stupa Peace Pagoda offers stunning views of the town below, making it a sunset hotspot. Our visit coincided with a colourful Buddhist festival, and we marvelled at the masked dances and festivities. Magnetic Hill is a well-known tourist spot where vehicles seemingly defy gravity and roll uphill.

The Khardung La Pass, at 5,360m, connecting Leh to the Nubra Valley, was more than a highlight. It’s a heart-pounding journey through some of the world’s most challenging terrain. The pass cuts through the enormous Ladakh mountain range, with peaks averaging 6,000m. It’s a favourite among motorcyclists and cyclists, offering dramatic views everywhere you look. Everyone requires a permit to travel, and passports are frequently checked.

The road was in decent condition but can close suddenly due to landslides. The Border Roads Organisation (BRO) has workers stationed every few miles to ensure it’s navigable again as quickly as possible. The pass is strategically important to India for supplying the Siachen Glacier. BRO has also erected unique and amusing road signs to encourage cautious driving. At the summit, we climbed the final few metres and enjoyed adding our prayer flags to the many already there.

Descending into the fabled Nubra Valley, meaning “valley of flowers,” was spellbinding. It is carved out by the Shyok River meeting the Siachen River to form a large valley separating the Ladakh and Karakoram mountain ranges. It’s an ideal place to relax and marvel at the expansive views and the night sky.

Here, we explored on foot – the Yarob Tso Lake, petroglyph sites, sand dunes, and the Panamik hot springs. We saw double-humped Bactrian camels and wandered through local rural villages.

Off the Beaten Track

Ladakh is ideal for anyone seeking an off-the-beaten-track experience with opportunities to enjoy nature, experience friendly cultural interactions, or find adventure. You’ll encounter a diverse mix of tourists – domestic and international, motorcyclists, trekkers, and backpackers. It’s not about luxury or slick service but about learning, connecting, and experiencing the rich tapestry of life in this extraordinary part of the world.

We can’t wait to go back and explore more!

Thank you to the GoVacation Team, Thinley, and Tanzen.