Ahilya Fort – An intimate affair in the heart of India
The most striking feature, as one will notice, is the contrast between quiet charismatic vibes of the Fort with that of the raw cacophonous Indian life on the Ahilya ghats; brimming with people doing pious rituals, washing clothes, meditating, yoga, singing and swimming. It is utmost rewarding to walk or take a boat ride along the ghats to witness all this at close quarters. With the juxtaposition vividly painted in front of your eyes, it is easy to switch between the quiet solitude of the fort and back to the exuberant life on the ghats, enjoying the best of both worlds. However, one must go beyond the fort and the ghats to unearth the treasure trove of experiences waiting to be discovered.
Take a boat ride away from the ghats of Ahilya, to the tiny temple island of Baneshwar which is frequented by local people to pay obeisance, treated to tea and biscuits while you try and identify some of the avian population around. Come back and you can head to Rehwa society established by, Price Richard and his then wife, to give a head start to the weaving industry while providing sustenance to the locals here and provide funding for the Ahilya school, which has been running for the past 15 years. Another day can be planned for a dip in the soothing waters of Narmada at the thousand cascades. One place which is a must visit is the city of Mandu, followed by a picnic lunch surrounded by history. Apart from the experiences which are away from the serene inside of the fort, Ahilya Fort boasts of some amazing experiences within its history clad walls as well.
Priests in the fort complex make 15,000 tiny shivlings of clay as part of a centuries-old daily ritual which is an intriguing process. The pool, set right by the vegetable garden and seems almost private, the library is a delight and so are the numerous nooks, corners and shady trees under which one can sit and breathe the many fragrances emanating from flowers that are everywhere. Dining is a whole different affair, whether, be it on the terrace of the ramparts or right under a tree, the meals are fresh and the variety mouth-watering. Every year in February the fort hosts 3 nights of cultural extravaganza against the backdrop of the calming Narmada, which is a glorious sight not to be missed.
A self-sustaining kingdom unto itself, Ahilya Fort, has an unrelenting charm that is hard to shake off. This royal residence cannot be construed as just a place, but as a humane entity where the stories of many still with her, are entwined for generations with the brick and mortar. Everyone comes prepared for India’s poverty and chaos, but it is here that they can truly revel in an India that many fail to perceive - harmonious, elegant and calming. The hum-drum of the life here has a unique rhythm to it that cannot be penned down, just felt and experienced through the silent stories of the walls that surround this retreat.
Amenities and facilities: (yes/no)
- Foreign exchange - NO
- Accepts Credit Card (Masters and Visa) – YES (Connection is sporadic, better to avoid paying by card)
- WiFi - YES
- Air-conditioning - YES (except the Standard rooms which are air cooled)
- Spa - NO (Massage room available)
- Complimentary water bottles in the room - YES
- Tea Coffee Maker in room - YES
- Towels and Toiletries in bathroom- YES
- Electronic Safe in room - YES
- In house phone in room and Room Service - NO
- Mini Bar in rooms - YES
- TV in the rooms - NO
- 24 hr power back up - YES
- Alcohol - YES
- Pool - YES
- In house activities (if any): YES
- Tipping – YES (They have a common tipping box)
Website: http://www.ahilyafort.com/
Getting there: The closest airport and railway station to this retreat is at Indore which is about 2 hours by car.
Why one must add Ahilya to their bucket list: Apart from being a memoir of history by itself, Fort Ahilya at Maheshwar in the state of Madhya Pradesh, is perfectly located amongst many places which are dripping with history. It is also quite right to say that the state of Madhya Pradesh is a splendid example of the harmonious lives of people, past and present, molded by the various turns of events, the stories of which one can hear on a visit to the various destinations. For those landing in Mumbai or Delhi, there is the possibility of doing an interesting full-fledged tour of Central India which is deservingly called the “Heart of India”.
Here is the itinerary starting from Mumbai that I would suggest; it can be reversed if one is arriving in Delhi:
Day 01: Arrive in Mumbai.
Day 02: Sightseeing of Mumbai.
Day 03: Take the morning train to Aurangabad. Day at leisure.
Day 04: Visit Ajanta Caves and Aurangabad caves.
Day 05: Visit Ellora caves and head to Burhanpur.
Day 06: Visit the sites at Burhanpur and drive to Maheshwar via Omkareshwar.
Day 07: At Maheshwar (day excursions or activities).
Day 08: At Maheshwar (day excursions or activities).
Day 09: From Maheshwar drive to Indore for overnight via Mandu.
Day 10: Visit the sites of Indore and drive to Ujjain.
Day 11: Visit the sites of Ujjain and continue to Bhopal.
Day 12: Spend day sightseeing in Bhopal and Drive to Agra.
Day 13: Visit the sites in Agra and drive to Delhi.
Day 14: Sightseeing of Delhi.
Day 15: Departure from Delhi.
For those interested in wildlife, Madhya Pradesh has a number of wildlife reserves which can be weaved into the itinerary as well. Below is a suggestion of the itinerary for wildlife enthusiasts:
Day 01: Arrive in Mumbai.
Day 02: Sightseeing of Mumbai
Day 03: Take the morning train to Aurangabad. Day at leisure.
Day 04: Visit Ajanta Caves and Aurangabad caves.
Day 05: Visit Ellora Caves and head to Burhanpur.
Day 06: Visit the sites at Burhanpur and drive to Maheshwar via Omkareshwar.
Day 07: At Maheshwar (day excursions or activities).
Day 08: At Maheshwar (day excursions or activities).
Day 09: From Maheshwar drive to Indore for overnight via Mandu.
Day 10: Visit the sites of Indore and drive to Ujjain.
Day 11: Visit the sites of Ujjain and continue to Bhopal.
Day 12: Spend day sightseeing in Bhopal and Drive to Satpura National Park via Bhimbhetka rock shelters.
Day 13: Spend day at Satpura National Park.
Day 14: Drive from Satpura National Park to Pench National Park.
Day 15: At Pench National Park.
Day 16: Pench National Park to Nagpur Airport and take flight to Delhi.
Day 17: At Delhi.
Day 18: Departure from Delhi.
**(Wildlife reserves are closed during the monsoon months from mid-June to mid-October; Evening safaris are not conducted on Wednesdays in Pench)
One can choose to include Kanha National Park and Bandhavgarh National Park (2 nights each) after Pench National Park, before driving to Jabalpur instead of Nagpur for the flight back to Delhi.
