4 days in Kangra Valley

Day 2: Day of the Buddha: A full day to immerse yourself in the spiritual traditions of Tibetan Buddhism. Spend your morning at the Norbulingka Institute. Norbulingka means Treasure Garden in the Tibetan language. When you walk through the gate with its painted doorframe, you enter another world. You forget about the hustle bustle outside. Yet, as you walk through its neat winding stone paths, it is difficult to comprehend the general hum of activity within the workshops of the institute – the Thangka Painters, the Metal Workers, the Wood Carvers, the Thangka Applique workers. Fish swim in the pools, prayer wheels rotate along pathways and prayer flags stretch and flutter between pine trees that line the way. It is really peaceful and happily productive. Grab a bite at the Humming Bird Café here which serves vegetarian food along with a wide variety of seasonal juices and smoothies, as well as tea and coffee. Later head out to the Gyuto Monastery. Built in 1993, the Gyuto Tantric monastery with its yellow buildings is rather simple in design and lacks the decorative enthusiasm of Norbulingka. But the monastic tradition of Gyuto is actually older than Colombus’ discovery of the New World. It is also known for its Choir which specialises in a unique style of chanting – throat singing - which uses the throat for amplification, causing an almost hypnotic effect on the listener. The Gyuto Monastery is the temporary home of the 17th Karmapa, the religious head of the Kagyu school of Tibetan Buddhism ever since his dramatic escape from Tibet in the year 2000. He is the second most important Tibetan religious leader after the Dalai Lama and grants an audience every Wednesday. End your day at Dolma Ling Nunnery where Buddhist nuns, for the first time in the history of Tibetan Buddhism are studying for the prestigious Geshema degree (Ph.D. in Buddhist Philosophy). Earlier it was only men who could become Geshes, the male equivalent of a Geshema. Geshes are the most educated monks who have carried much responsibility of keeping alive the traditions of Tibet among the diaspora worldwide after the Chinese occupation. Watch the nuns debate here. It is quite interesting embellished with loud hand clapping and emphatic gestures.

Day 3: History, Legend and Art of the Kangra Valley: A full day escorted tour from Dharamshala. Get to know about the History, Legend and Art of the Kangra Valley. Take a short joyride on the Kangra Toy Train; one of two mountain railways that run in Himachal Pradesh, the other being the UNESCO World Heritage Kalka-Shimla Railway. Start your day by visiting the Kangra Fort which exudes sheer strength and energy. The view of the Dhauladhar range is stunning from here on a clear day. “One of India’s oldest, built 3500 years ago and the largest in the foothills of the Himalayas, it stands atop a hill, surrounded on three sides by steep mountain slopes. The Fort has a fantastic audio tour and the museum here houses a fine collection from the Kangra School of miniature painting,” says Kuntil. From the Kangra Fort head out to the Kangra Railway Station, a short drive away for an hour long joyride on the Kangra Toy Train. Work on this line was started in 1926 and was completed in 3 years. Unlike the Shimla-Kalka train, where you spend most of your time going through tunnels, the Kangra toy train gently meanders through hills and valleys, with stunning views of the Dhauladhar range on a clear day. Enjoy lunch at Taragarh Palace built in 1937 on fifteen acres of camphor forest and tea gardens. Post lunch continue to the 13th century Baijnath Temple which has a really picturesque setting with amazing views again of the Dhauladhar range on a clear day. The temple falls en route to important commercials towns of Himachal Pradesh such as Mandi, and Hamirpur. Everybody stops here to pray before they continue with their journey.

Day 4: Walking around Kangra Valley: The Kangra Valley is also a great destination to enjoy the outdoors by going out on leisurely walks. The magnificent Dhauladhar mountain range is right there all the time with you on a clear day, especially during the month of March and April when the Rhododendrons are also in bloom. Today walk from Naddi Village to Dharamkot with your Guide. An early start is recommended so that you are back in your hotel on time for a Beer and leisurely lunch. The walk lasts for about 3 hrs with absolutely no steep ascent which is perfect. Anybody can do it. To manage expectations and to set the record straight Naddi is not your typical “traditional village”. So don’t come here expecting “mud-houses-with-thatch-roofs”. The village of Naddi has concrete houses and Dish TV too. The people of Naddi have done good for themselves. Thanks to tourism. Naddi is the starting point for many hikes. But what’s most striking about Naddi is the view of the snow-capped Dhauladhar range which is closer than from any other location in Dharamsala or Mcleodganj. From Naddi the view is almost straight across rather than looking upward. And its cleanliness. “From Naddi I entered the forest with cedar and oak trees, rhododendrons in bloom, listening to the chirping of birds, the lanky cedar trees providing shade, and the best part being these characters that would keep on appearing seemingly out of nowhere like actors of nature's own cinema. The deep, soothing, sonorous sound of a bamboo flute from somewhere in the woods kept me company when I stopped to take a break,” says Kuntil. The Sita car will be waiting for you at Dharamkot. Spend the afternoon at leisure.

Day 5: Proceed to onward destination post breakfast from Dharamshala. “If you are heading from Dharamsala to Pragpur I would recommend you make an enroute stop at Sujanpur Tira to admire the exquisite miniature paintings of the Kangra School at Narvadeshwar temple, overlooking the River Beas. It’s a gem of a place which rarely sees any tourist,” says Kuntil.