The other side of Leh and Ladakh - Pangong Tso and Sakti

Starting from Leh the anticipation for me started building en route my first stop on the itinerary, Pangong Tso. The route from Leh to Pangong Tso passes through the Chemrey and Changthang Valleys. 30 minutes into the drive from Leh starts the Chemrey valley where I came across the very quaint Thekchhok Gompa which was built in the seventeenth century and looks onto the bright yellow fields of mustard growing in the Chemrey village. It is here in the month of November the Chemrey Angchok festival is hosted, the star attraction being, the masked dances.

Driving further we went through the third highest motorable pass in the world, Chang-La, situated at an altitude of 5289 meters. Once through the pass, we entered the Changthang valley and the scenery that met my eyes was that of a continuous view of the imposing Karakoram Range, simply marvelous. I would like to add here that it is best to be seated on the left seat throughout the drive to have the best view and to the right when heading back.

The drive, as one will realize, is also a striking contrast as you move from a succession of multi-color mountains and dry plateau to a greener surrounding owing to the gently rippling waters of Pangong Tso. Pangong Tso, Asia’s largest and highest salt water lake, is an ever changing shade of green and blue that stretches hundred-thirty kilometers against a backdrop of the greyish brown mountains and snow-capped peaks, amazing photo opportunities.

I would definitely recommend a one night stop here, with the main attraction being the lake itself and several walks which can be organized by the camp you choose to stay at. There are a few camps at Pangmik on the southern side of the Lake which offer a spectacular view of the Chang-chenmo range, its reflection shimmering in the lake’s pristine waters on the north and the rising glaciers and snow-capped peaks of the Pangong range at the back.

The best option to stay out of the lot of camps here is the Pangong Heritage which is very close to the lake and offers lake facing tents which are of decent quality. For those who just want a basic clean tented accommodation, Yak Camp would be ideal. Recommended for an authentic stay, Sasoma Homestay proposes six very simple rooms in a house and is a little away from all the crowd of camps and tourists.

A little off beaten just like Pangong Tso is the little village of Sakti, a rather small and green farming village just one and a half hours from the bustling town of Leh and en route (preferably a stop on the way back) Pangong Tso. I decided to break my journey back from Pangong Tso to Leh here to sit back, relax and take in the greens and quiet of a Ladakhi village. Though it may not seem much to the eye at first glance, it’s only a stay here that will change one’s perspective.

I reached in the afternoon and walked through the village just wanting to explore. I made my way to the Takthong Monastery which perched against a pallid rocky cave. It is believed that between the 7th and the 8th century, Guru Padmasambhavha visited the caves of Sakti and meditated there. It is on this exact place that the monastery was established in the 7th century. There was not a soul when I visited and that made for a perfect time to retrospect and take in the spiritual vibes.

The highlight however, for me was the Solpon Homestay which is really perfect and one of the best homestays I stayed in on the entire trip. The homestay is run by Stobgial and his two young daughters, who barely speak English but are very hospitable. The rooms are of course very simple but well maintained and bright. Being right in the middle of the village it is the perfect address to explore the village and witness the daily routine of people here. There is also Sakti Villa that provides decent rooms or tents at the foot of the monastery which is a typical hotel. But I would like to just add here that the best way to experience Sakti would be by immersing in the daily lives of the people which is best experienced through a stay at Solpon Homestay. I believe, that for those who plan to travel around Leh and Ladakh, a visit to Pangong Tso and Sakti Village is a splendid way to immerse in the natural beauty as well as the village life of Ladakh.