The Not So Quintessential Kerala
When one thinks about Kerala, it is almost always the backwaters or the beaches or the food that comes to one’s mind. But go beyond all of that and hidden in plain sight in the manifolds of God’s own country is the very core of the harmonious existence of common folk that has evolved over decades and made it a magnanimous kaleidoscope of culture and tradition that we see today. Here are 4 out of the ordinary experiences that I had the good fortune of trying first-hand on a 2 week tour around Kerala that brings out this essence of the not so quintessential Kerala.
While in Kochi, I explored the heart of Fort Kochi on a cycling tour organized by a friend of Sita. A bunch of highly knowledgeable people, their stories are truly intriguing. We started at their headquarters set up in a quiet residential area to pick up my bike and deep dive into a part of Kochi which sees very few tourists. On this cycling tour I got to witness the daily lives of the 13 communities from all over India that reside here. It would be right to say here that it is like seeing a country within a country. This tour is a spectacular mix of architecture, culture and food!! It is astonishing to see different architectural styles of the living quarters as well as the places of worship which is indigenous to each of the communities that co-exist in perfect harmony. A cup of coffee or tea along the way with traditional snacks made for a perfect mid-way stop. After a 4 hour long exhilarating ride, I headed to the Sea Gull bar with its splendid views to relax over a couple of chilled beers.
Another experience that blew my mind is the quaint fishing village of Chellanam en route from Kochi to Kumarakom. I was given the option of either cycling around or taking a tuk-tuk, I chose the latter. I walked to where all the action happens with my host, Girish, and while we watched the fishermen come back to the shores with baskets full of fishes, Girish explained to me how business is conducted. The bidding process which takes place is really interesting. Hordes of people from exporters to local vendors bid for the catch huddled around a bidding manager who makes a note of the sale in a tiny parchment. It is fascinating to watch this scene unfold amidst the charged atmosphere. Later, we jumped onto the tuk-tuk and made our way to the home of a local family for breakfast and conversations before getting onto a canoe to cross over to visit the local market where the hum-drum is captivating. Great photo opportunities.
En-route Kumarakom and Thekkady, I made a stop at Manayath Heritage. Mr. Tomichen, the gracious host, owns a cardamom plantation and showed me around while explaining to me the daily routine. Walking around in the canopied paths while identifying the variety of spices is quite a unique experience and to have a host who talks about it passionately is surely a great way to do it. For those who make it around lunch time, Mr. Tomichen and his wife host an authentic Kerala spread for lunch, a must try. We then walked a little further away from their house to their ancestral home set within a garden in the property which was transported from its original location and reassembled here. It is also here at Manayath that you can cross over to Tamil Nadu through a tiny wicket gate that opens onto a splendid view of the valley below. That way despite being in Kerala you can visit the neighboring state of Tamil Nadu without having to drive there!!
At the end of this tour, I made a little detour to Thrissur (45 minutes from the Kochi international airport) where they host the annual Tiger dance festival, locally known as the Pullikali every August/September. This unique dance festival has the entire city in a state of frenzy. 6 to 8 teams from across the city participate in this festival. The morning is spent getting the faces of tigers, lions and panthers painted on the rotund bellies of the participants, some in vivid colours of fluorescent, green and even pink!! Accompanied with the beat of drums, each of the teams then compete against each other in a street parade. The winning team is selected by a panel of judges based on the synchronisation and the number of large bellies that jiggle to make the faces of the big cats look ferocious. Who said having a big belly doesn’t pay? The surreal vibes that accompany this parade is one the thing that will be etched in my memory vividly.
