MONTHLY MUSINGS
In Kerala, the month of December marks the beginning of Theyyam season. In the dark of the night, ordinary mortals invite the Gods and Goddesses to possess their bodies and descend on Earth. In the mystical world of the ritual arts of Theyyam, Gods commune with the faithful directly. This strange universe of Kerala ordered by the strangest of the rituals was the best kept secret of God’s Own Country until William Dalrymple wrote ‘Nine Lives’ that has put Theyyam on the world map.
December is also marked by Christmas which has a special place in Kerala and Kolkata. While no festival in these places has ever been restricted by religion, Christmas is probably the most striking example of its gracious inclusivity.
It is the twinkling Christmas star put up at Christian homes or shops which sets the tone for a season of cheerfulness and joy during Christmas in Kerala. This is the time when Kochi also has the Muziris Biennale and Cochin Carnival, adding to the glitz. The Indira Gandhi Boat Race is also around the same time. Fort Kochi and Mattancherry Palace are adorned with white paper buntings and churches like Sanat Cruz Cathedral Basilica, and St.Francis Church are all bustling with activity, music and little cribs. Come December, Kolkata, especially Park Street, decks up with lights, the restaurants feature Christmas dinners, and rich plum cakes line the shelves of bakeries big and small. Buying a Christmas cake from Nahoum, a 115-year-old Jewish bakery or Saldanha Bakery owned by a small Goan family is practically a tradition in Kolkata. The stalls of Muslim vendors across Free School Street and New Market are glittering with tinsel, Christmas trees, Santa Claus dolls, and ornaments. Even the occasional Mary, Joseph, and baby Jesus find their way into these stores.
Irrespective of religion, people arrive at the gates of St. Paul’s Cathedral to see the Christmas decoration, attend the Christmas carnival, and even the midnight Mass. The old Anglo-Indian quarters of Bow Barracks, with their signature red brick houses, are bedecked with strands of lights, vendors from the nearby old China Town set up stalls to sell steaming hot fish sui-mai and momos.
A stage is set up for musical performances that often include Bollywood songs. Earlier you could find homemade ginger ale and wines too.
This is just how Christmas has always been in these cities, far apart geographically and yet united in the spirit of Christmas. These few fleeting days of wintry chill, the promise of oranges and roasted nuts, mulled wine and plum cake, no wonder people here wait for December so eagerly.
Happy Christmas!
WHAT’S NEW
This issue’s What’s New section features 3 up and coming properties in Jawai and Jaipur.
- Brij Jawai, Jawai
- The Johri, Jaipur
- Rajmahal Palace RAAS, Jaipur
KNOWLEDGE WITHOUT BORDERS
A Virtual Familiarisation Tour of Ellora Caves
Acquaint yourself with the rock-cut caves at Ellora, a UNESCO world heritage site.
Duration : 139 seconds
Feel free to get in touch with us if you want to take a deeper dive into this UNESCO World Heritage Site.
SUSTAINABILITY & US
A lot has changed in the past year, and in the aftermath, it seems we won't be going back to “normal” anytime soon. Not just in the way we live and work but also how we think and behave. The pandemic has taught us a lot. We are all still learning whilst resetting our priorities and trying to process the changes. With our Sustainability Action Plan being in place, we think the best way to move forward on this path is to change our perspective and start adapting it in our own lives. Our colleague, Mitlesh Kandwal from the Operations team, shares his experience on what set him off on the path to a green living.
“I learnt there is no better way to happiness than growing your own food.”
During the lockdown I saw my mother working in the kitchen garden. It was not for the first time I saw her doing that. She has been growing organic vegetables in her kitchen garden since I was a child. Maybe I wanted a distraction from all the boredom and uncertainty. Maybe I have learnt to be better observer during the lockdown. Whatever it may have been, I soon started watching her intently whilst striking up random conversations as she went about her gardening. One day she asked me to join her and I felt an instant connection. Getting my hands dirty while working and the mere touch of the soil was so therapeutic.
I have had experienced almost three seasons during the lockdown and each season had different varieties of vegetables to offer. My mother also taught me how to cook the vegetables that I had grown, gave me age-old tips on waste management and smart usage of scarce resources, particularly water in the kitchen garden. I felt an immense sense of love and gratitude that made my heart swell with peace. I learnt there is no better way to happiness than growing your own food.
EXPLORE
Ajrakhpur Block Printing
In this ‘hands-on’ workshop with an expert, you will get to work with the artisans (see, touch, hear and smell) while getting introduced to the Ajrakh block printing tradition known for its complex, yet elegant symmetry of geometric patterns. Ajrakh means “Aaj ke din rakh” in Hindi, which means ‘keep it for a day’. It is also said that the name perhaps originates from “Azraq” the Arabic word for ‘blue’, the predominant color in Ajrakh whose specimens were found as far away as Egypt and Babylon who enjoyed great trade ties with the Indian subcontinent.
After the workshop enjoy a vegetarian lunch at the Café of The Living and Learning Design Centre (LLDC) Ajrakhpur followed by a visit to the LLDC, one-of-its-kind Textile Museum dedicated to the soulful crafts of Kutch.
PHOTO LIBRARY
A Holly-Jolly December to Remember
