MONTHLY MUSINGS
Kerala’s Own Water Olympics
Here are 3 compelling reasons to visit Kerala during the Monsoons – Ayurveda because the body pores are the most receptive to the therapies, the Harvest Festival of Onam for its sheer culinary delight, and the Boat Races, the Water Olympics of God’s Own Country. Locally known as Vallam Kalli, the Boat Races of Kerala is perhaps the most vigorous, prestigious, and community-oriented water sports in India. During August and September, there are about 47 boat races conducted in Kerala in uniquely designed boats. These boats are different from each other in the shape of the helm, prow, and capacity to accommodate the crew. While some of them can accommodate 150 oarsmen and can be as big as 100 feet in length, some can accommodate a crew of 12 and are 18 feet in length.
Boat races in Kerala may be a recent phenomenon, but the history of these boats goes back to nearly 500 years. Unlike their colourful benign images, they were once battle vessels. The smaller variety of boats was used to rapidly transport a large posse of soldiers in the backwaters of Alleppey, Kottayam, and surrounding areas by the local chieftains who were constantly at war with each other. The bigger ones formed a part of the royal flotilla during temple festivals and were used to welcome royal dignitaries. The bloody feuds have long been forgotten but the rivalry continues albeit in a friendly manner in the form of boat races. For guests who want to experience the spectacular sporting event during monsoon, we highly recommend they visit the practice camps of the different villages for an insight into the preparations and how the local community contributes. Each village has its own boat and there is a lot of pride and enthusiasm associated with it – right from making one to preparing for the races to finally participating in it.
Each boat race has its own story of origin. Here’s the one of the Champakulam Boat Race of Kuttanad area of the backwaters, the oldest of the Boat Races in Kerala. There is this very special house in Kuttanad which guests can visit. For nearly 500 years, the Mappilassery family, along with Christian icons such as the holy cross, and the statues of Jesus and Mother Mary, has kept an eternal lamp burning on the family altar. The lamp was given to their ancestors by a Hindu king. In 1545 A.D, an entourage of the local Hindu king was passing Kuttanad with an idol of Krishna on their way to Ambalapuzha. When night set in, they were instructed by the King to take shelter at a Christian household, the home of Mappilassery Itty Thommen. The next day, the King turned up at the home of the Mappilassery family, accompanied by a huge mass of people. Pujas were offered to the deity and Itty Thommen and his men travelled with the idol to Ambalapuzha. On the way, the priests and laity of the Champakulam Church also honoured the King and the idol. The King, pleased with the love and affection shown to him by his Christian subjects, declared that henceforth, to commemorate these events, a great water carnival would be held. Thus began the Champakulam Boat Race which continues to this very day.
The boat songs are a fascinating part and parcel of this extravaganza. The chorus of “thi thi tharra thi thi thaai” at the end of each stanza will make anyone dream of being on the race rowing with the mighty oarsmen. These songs for the oarsmen were composed to break the monotony, offer respite from exhaustion, and also for synchronization. Gliding on the lakes and canals, the oarsmen sing these songs accompanied by the lead singer’s baritone as they furiously strike the water with their paddles. It is battle time again.
Here’s a famous Kerala Boat Song 'Kuttanadan Punjayile' - click here with a new twist and it sounds awesome.
See you in Kerala this Monsoon during the Boat Races.
WHERE TO STAY
Qayaam Gah, Srinagar
Qayaam Gah is a small and intimate retreat by ABChapri Retreats offering blissful seclusion, surreal natural beauty, and a unique stay experience. With seven wonderfully fitted rooms fashioned in the traditional Kashmiri style and state-of-the-art amenities, Qayaam Gah Eco lodge is a great combination of old-style and spiritual values set in Zabarwan hills with spectacular views of Kashmir valley. The retreat's food is the focus, with all raw ingredients being organic and locally obtained to make delectable indigenous and global meals. Enjoy an evening cup of Kashmiri tea or a sun downer with a spectacular view of the valley, and discover serenity and reconnect with yourself through a myriad of experiences. The area around the retreat has been left undisturbed in order to welcome the abundant wildlife present in the region.
Weaving it into an itinerary
Routing: Srinagar – Gulmarg – Pahalgam – Srinagar – Amritsar – Delhi
Temi Tea Bungalow, Temi
Temi is a breathtakingly beautiful natural experience that is both relaxing and invigorating. The majestic snow-capped mountains of Kanchenjunga, the huge 400-acre tea gardens, the fresh air, the mountain springs, and the birdlife, not to mention the delectable meals provided here, all add to the allure. This plantation retreat comprises the main heritage Bada Bungalow with five rooms, eight individual cottages, an indoor dining space, and a wonderful outdoor deck with views of the mountain ranges. The Bada Bungalow is a heritage colonial structure that has been rebuilt to provide luxurious comfort, warmth, and shelter. The Bungalow is surrounded by a huge veranda that provides uninterrupted views of the snow clad Kanchenjunga Range in the distance and also the luscious green slopes that lead up to it. The cottages are newly built in a style that keeps the aesthetic intact; modern and spacious on the inside, with modest sit outs. Temi is a place to unwind, read a book, go for long walks, learn about the local culture or listen to plantation stories or gaze at the stars on a clear night.
Weaving it into an itinerary
Routing: Bagdogra – Darjeeling – Kalimpong – Gangtok – Temi – Darjeeling – Bagdogra
Pathiramanal Villa, Alleppey
Pathiramanal Villa is a gorgeous holiday home located in the Keralan village of Alleppey overlooking the Vembanad Lake. It showcases a fusion of traditional and modern architecture. Treat yourself to a stay in one of their rooms with large windows and see-through curtains that allows you to enjoy breath-taking views from the comfort of your bed. The Deluxe rooms are decorated with impressive traditional Athangudi tiles and exquisitely decorated four poster beds. In addition, the villa offers a pool, a lotus pond, a lounge, and a Gazebo. Amã Stays & Trails Pathiramanal Villa is ideally located close to popular tourist destinations in and around Alleppey. Cochin International Airport is about two hours’ drive from the villa.
Weaving it into an itinerary
Routing: Kochi – Alleppey – Kumarakom - Kochi